04.08.09 Hoi An

Hoi An, a city which used to be a major trading port and so has made its name in silk and tailoring suits and dresses in an instant for the tourists. So we spent a morning checking out a number of the tailors and their selections of materials (acting like we knew what we were looking for!) After all that hard work we found it neccessary to blow our daily budget and treat ourselves to delicious chocolate cake at cargo. It was here that money spending went down hill! So we proceeded and decided on the most expensive tailors (with the reason that these suits and dresses are to assure us jobs in New Zealand and satisfy our paranoia about dodgy workmanship).

We knew hoi an was also well known for its lantern festival (because we saw it on top gear!) and decided to find out when the full moon was - just incase we needed to stay a couple of days longer for it. We were so lucky because it happened to be that evening and it was really special. They turn out all of the street lights and have lanterns everywhere - particularly floating along the river. We had dinner on the roof of a restaurant (first yellow building in the picture) overlooking the river which was very romantic.

The next day we went nervously for our 2nd fitting but all fears were eased and so I ordered a second dress ( a silk party dress rather than a work one). We seemed to be enjoying just chilling out in Hoi An and so stayed a few more days than we initially planned- sight seeing around the old traders houses, clothes fittings, eating, buying gifts and generally spending our money!! Quick we needed to move on...... having overstayed we now didnt have time for the mekong delta but we had taken the decision that we didnt mind. So two days of travel were ahead of us- one bus with beds on it - luxury, a night in saigon and then a day bus to take us all the way to siem reap in cambodia..... 48 hours of fun.

01.08.09 Hue

We got ourselves set up in the Bao Minh Hotel and spent much of our first day doing internet and organising stuff. We ventured into the city and explored the citadel and its city walls which provided interest for a whole day, although the hot weather made us weary at some points! The next day we got energetic and went by bicycle, out of town to tu ducs tomb (called a tomb even though he was buried somewhere else secret!?). After arriving back in town sooner than we thought, we decided to take a leisurely cycle inside the city walls. It was just a shame that they all drive like maniacs and traffic lights dont seem to mean much so some of the cycle was less leisurely and more hair raising!!

30.07.09 Ninh Binh

Moving on from Halong Bay we were still excited by the limestone karsts so we stopped off at Ninh Binh, a similar kind of landscape to Halong but on land. We were only there for a day but managed to pack it all in to one brilliant bike ride. Charlie looked particularly suited to the bike with basket! The day started early with a 9km cycle to the Tam Coc river and then a row down river for a couple of hours with local rowers who row with their feet when the arms get tired (or when they want to sell you something!).

We then pedalled our way around the limestone karsts along tracks among rice paddies. Every now and then we stopped off at a pagoda for a hot climb and a stunning hill top view. So excited by the cycling and views we forgot to have lunch so compensated with a bia hoi once we had worked out how far we were from home. I wouldn't say we got lost, more took a slight detour... in the pouring rain - at least it kept us cool. A full days cycling which tired us out suitably for a sleep on an overnight bus to Hue.

27.07.09 Ha Long Bay

After a HARD nights sleep on the train back to Hanoi we hopped on the bus and boat to Cat Ba, an island which borders Halong Bay. We had an easy afternoon before getting up early the next day to board our junk boat and cruise the waters of Halong.

There were a few mixed emotions as we and the Italian girls we had booked with weren't quite sure if we were getting what we had paid Mr Phong for. But by the end of the trip we were over awed by the views, the experiences and the $5 refund helped.

We cruised around the limestone karsts which jut out of the water, with kayaks in tow. Every now and then we stopped and kayaked to have a closer look at the emerald waters - We jumped straight in but after observing the numerous jellyfish from the kayak we were more careful about getting out!

After a tiring day lying aboard the ship, having lunch and dinner cooked for us, we anchored surrounded by the karsts to watch the sunset. We were lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the boat and awoken early by........ to my surprise - Charlie, eager to make a move and get out in the kayaks! It was raining in the morning but that only added to the atmosphere.

Mr Phong had saved the best till last. The boat took us to a spot where they put us in kayaks and pointed us towards a dark cave. As we went deeper into the cave I got a little scared and thought about suggesting we turn around, but before I could I saw light at the other end. It was not a cave but a long tunnel to a secret lagoon. There were more to come, with three consecutive lagoons, some of the entrances less obvious than the others. It was awesome - we felt like adventurers.

21.07.09 Bac Ha and Sapa

We decided a breath of fresh air was needed and so following some brief research in our travel books we jumped aboard the night train to Bac Ha for some rice terraces, minority folk and trekking. Unfortunately we soon realised that Bac Ha 'the non touristy' alternative to Sapa was not touristy for a reason being less picturesque and more expensive. Following some advice from a friendly French couple we decided to change our plans and head across the mountains to Sapa. A word of wanring; for some reason Vietmanese ladies, hills and minibuses = bags full of sick been thrown out of the window.

We arrived ready for the assualt of beautifully dressed tribeswomen and girls (5 years old +) trying to sell you some of their 'traditional' clothing or accessories and quickly found accomodation. Early the next day we set off with water and food for two days to go and visit the villages of the black h'mong and dazo tribe villages, we soon had company and had acquired two hmong ladies (Kha and Cjki see above) who would guide us for the rest of the day, take us to their villages and feed us lunch (in an unofficial but morally obliging purchase of cool craft goods including bags, shawls, blankets, pillow cases and braclets). About three hours into the trek and much to the amusement of Kha and Cjki we realised there were cafes and small shops selling food and water and so the 20 kg pack was highly unnecessary!

We eventually ditched the ladies in the afternoon (they kept on following us even after we had purchased the goods and insisted we would prefer to travel on our own that afternoon) and set off on our own, of course we quickly got 'lost' and kinda free styled it until we came to a up or down the mountain split in the path...seeing as it was getting dark and the uphill was really uphill we headed down and back to the safety of the river and road on the opposite side of the valley.

Just to keep things logical we then headed back to Bac Ha to see the Sunday market which was truly spectacular being filled with the tribesfolk, cattle, flowers and anything the locals could possibly need for the forthcoming week (a new pair of plastic flipflops for the tribeswomen and a haircut for the men).

Wicked place and the cooler weather was a welcome break from relentless sweating.

18.07.09 Bia Hoi in Hanoi

We spent some time wandering around the old quarter of Hanoi. The street scale is lovely and although it is hectic because of all the motorbikes we enjoyed this city much more than bangkok. During the evenings we enjoyed some bia hoi - the local draught, sitting on childrens plastic stools on the street corner. From here we could observe the moped near misses and be intrigued by what the women had in their selling baskets.

From here we get the night train to lao cai in the mountains - we are pleased to be leaving the cities behind us for the country.