21.07.09 Bac Ha and Sapa

We decided a breath of fresh air was needed and so following some brief research in our travel books we jumped aboard the night train to Bac Ha for some rice terraces, minority folk and trekking. Unfortunately we soon realised that Bac Ha 'the non touristy' alternative to Sapa was not touristy for a reason being less picturesque and more expensive. Following some advice from a friendly French couple we decided to change our plans and head across the mountains to Sapa. A word of wanring; for some reason Vietmanese ladies, hills and minibuses = bags full of sick been thrown out of the window.

We arrived ready for the assualt of beautifully dressed tribeswomen and girls (5 years old +) trying to sell you some of their 'traditional' clothing or accessories and quickly found accomodation. Early the next day we set off with water and food for two days to go and visit the villages of the black h'mong and dazo tribe villages, we soon had company and had acquired two hmong ladies (Kha and Cjki see above) who would guide us for the rest of the day, take us to their villages and feed us lunch (in an unofficial but morally obliging purchase of cool craft goods including bags, shawls, blankets, pillow cases and braclets). About three hours into the trek and much to the amusement of Kha and Cjki we realised there were cafes and small shops selling food and water and so the 20 kg pack was highly unnecessary!

We eventually ditched the ladies in the afternoon (they kept on following us even after we had purchased the goods and insisted we would prefer to travel on our own that afternoon) and set off on our own, of course we quickly got 'lost' and kinda free styled it until we came to a up or down the mountain split in the path...seeing as it was getting dark and the uphill was really uphill we headed down and back to the safety of the river and road on the opposite side of the valley.

Just to keep things logical we then headed back to Bac Ha to see the Sunday market which was truly spectacular being filled with the tribesfolk, cattle, flowers and anything the locals could possibly need for the forthcoming week (a new pair of plastic flipflops for the tribeswomen and a haircut for the men).

Wicked place and the cooler weather was a welcome break from relentless sweating.